Traveling by car is the most convenient way to explore Dominica, but it can be quite stressful to even the most confident drivers because of the terrain, poor road conditions and local driving practices. Though the island is relatively small, attractions are spread out, and the winding, narrow roads make for difficult and nauseating drives. Proceed with caution through the mountains and over the many potholed streets, and remember to drive on the left.

You will need to buy a driving permit, which costs about $12 and is available at all rental agencies, the airport and the Traffic Department office in downtown Roseau.

Several international agencies plus a few reputable local ones have offices in a separate building right outside the airport terminal. Because of poor road conditions, it's well worth investing in a high-clearance vehicle, preferably a (small) 4WD, especially if you're going to be exploring the mountains. Some agencies have offices in Roseau, the capital city. Daily rates start at about $25 per day for sedans and about $50 for 4WDs, plus 15% VAT; many of the local agencies give discounts for rentals longer than two days. All companies offer free pickups and drop-offs, unlimited mileage and cell-phone rentals.

We recommend traveling by taxi because even the island's residents are sometimes too scared to navigate its tricky roads. Taxis are also a lot more comfortable than the buses. You can hire a taxi at both airports or at most hotels and guesthouses. Prices are regulated but rather expensive. If you want a sightseeing tour around the island, drivers usually charge anywhere from about $70 to $90, but you can negotiate a special price if you ride with other passengers. If you're looking to hire a taxi in the evening, your best bet is to call ahead as taxis can be hard to find at night. Taxis are identified by their license plates; H, HA or HB usually precede the registration numbers on the number plates. Ride-hailing apps, such as Uber, do not operate in Dominica.

The public transportation system, which mainly consists of minibus operators, can be an affordable way to get around. Government-licensed private minivans with number plates starting with ‘H’ serve communities on an erratic schedule along the main roads. All routes originate at various stops in downtown Roseau. Fares range between $0.50 and $4, but the expensive taxis are significantly more reliable. Buses will stop anywhere on the main street as long as you can flag it down. Buses are not reliable for night travel.